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Types of pastry compared

Pastry types differ mainly in how the fat is combined with the flour. Rubbed-in fat gives crumbly shortcrust, layered fat gives flaky puff, and cooked paste gives hollow choux.

CookBook TeamUpdated

Six pastries compared

Ratios are by weight, taken from the recipes cited in each section below. They compare selected ingredients, not complete formulas: choux, for example, also needs eggs. Treat them as starting points and follow a complete recipe.

PastryHow the fat goes inTypical ratio by weightTextureTypical uses
Shortcrust (pâte brisée)Cold fat rubbed or cut into flour, then a little waterFat 50 to 80% of the flourCrisp, crumbly to flakyQuiche, fruit pies, chicken pie
Sweet pastry (pâte sucrée, sablée)Butter creamed with sugar and egg, or rubbed into the flourAbout 2:1 flour to butter, with sugar at 20 to 50% of the flourShort and crumblySweet tarts and tartlets
Puff (pâte feuilletée)Butter block sealed in dough, then rolled and foldedButter about 80 to 90% of the flourCrisp, separate, flaky leavesNapoleons, filled pastries, savoury pies
Rough puffCold butter flakes mixed in, then rolled and foldedButter about 75 to 95% of the flourFlaky, closer to a folded shortcrustTurnovers, palmiers
ChouxButter melted in boiling liquid, flour cooked in, eggs beaten inLiquid about 1.5 times the flour; butter 60 to 75% of the flourCrisp shell, hollow centreÉclairs, profiteroles, gougères
FiloMelted butter or oil brushed between sheetsDough about 2:1 flour to waterPaper-thin, crisp layersBaklava, spanakopita
Cut croissant, choux bun and tart shell showing different pastry structures
Different methods create different structures: laminated dough separates into layers, choux forms a shell, and a tart case stays comparatively short and crumbly.

Shortcrust ratios

Coating the flour with fat before the water goes in limits gluten, which keeps shortcrust tender. Typical ratios by weight:

  • French pâte brisée: 2:1 flour to butter. For example 250 g flour, 125 g butter, an optional egg and a little water [1].
  • 3:2:1 flour, fat and water. Fat is about 67% of the flour [2][3].
  • American pie crust: fat at 60 to 80% of the flour. A classic double crust uses 297 g flour to 188 g butter and shortening (63%) [4][5].

Method essentials: keep the fat very cold, leave some pieces the size of a small coin for flakiness [5], add just enough cold water to bind, and chill before rolling.

Sweet pastry: sucrée and sablée

Pâte sucrée is usually made by creaming the butter with sugar and egg, for example 200 g flour, 100 g butter, 80 g icing sugar and 1 egg [6]. Pâte sablée is richer and more crumbly, and is often made by rubbing the butter into the flour, for example 250 g flour, 125 g butter, 125 g sugar, 1 egg and 1 yolk [7]. Some sablée recipes use icing sugar, soft butter and ground almonds [1]. For both, low-gluten flour and an overnight rest in the fridge keep gluten low and limit shrinking [8].

Puff and rough puff

Classic puff encloses a butter block in a lean dough (détrempe), then rolls and folds it. In the oven, steam trapped by the fat layers pushes them apart [9]. Butter is usually 80 to 90% of the flour weight: for example 570 g flour to 453 g butter with six letter folds [10], or 500 g flour to 450 g butter [11].

Rough puff flattens cold butter into flakes in the flour, then folds the rough, uneven dough. Butter is usually 75 to 95% of the flour: for example 360 g flour to 340 g butter with one letter fold and two book folds [12], or 500 g flour to 375 g butter [11].

Lamination and the layer maths

A turn is one roll and one fold. A letter fold (single turn, tour simple) folds the dough in thirds and triples the butter layers. A book fold (double turn, tour double) folds both ends to the centre, then in half, and multiplies them by four.

Starting from one butter layer between two of dough:

  • Butter layers = 3^L × 4^B, where L is the number of letter folds and B the number of book folds
  • Dough layers = butter layers + 1, because at each fold two dough surfaces meet and fuse
  • Total layers = 2 × butter layers + 1

Worked layer counts

Folds after lock-inButter layersDough layersTotal
1 letter + 1 book121325
3 letter (croissant)272855
1 letter + 2 book (rough puff, notional)484997
4 letter8182163
4 book256257513
6 letter (classic puff)7297301,459

When a recipe quotes a layer count, check whether it means butter layers or all layers: six letter folds give 729 butter layers and 1,459 layers in all. Rough puff counts are notional, because its butter starts as scattered flakes. Past about eight turns the layers become so thin that they fuse [13].

Choux

Choux is cooked twice. Boil the liquid and butter, add the flour at once, and stir over the heat until the paste leaves the pan and a film forms on the base. Cool it to below 52 °C (125 °F) [14], then beat in the eggs gradually until the paste is glossy and a line drawn through it closes slowly. A typical batch uses 250 g milk and water, 100 g butter, 165 g flour and 250 g egg [15]. Cooking pre-gelatinises the starch, so the paste holds more water to turn into steam [16]. Moist walls collapse, so bake until a test shell is dry inside.

Filo

Filo is a lean dough of flour, water and salt, sometimes with egg or vinegar, stretched until you can see through it [17]. A typical dough uses 500 g flour to 250 ml water, with 200 g melted butter brushed between the sheets [18]. Keep unused sheets covered: they dry and tear quickly.

Blind baking

Blind baking sets and browns a case before a wet or unbaked filling goes in: fully for fillings that never go back in the oven, partly for custards that bake briefly. Chill the lined pan for 30 minutes, cover the pastry with parchment or foil, fill with weights, beans or rice, and bake at 190 °C (375 °F) for 20 minutes. For a full bake, remove the weights, prick the base and bake 20 to 25 minutes more [19].

Pale unbaked tart pastry with a fork-pricked base
Chilled and unbaked The pastry is still soft and pale. Chill the lined tin, then use the lining and weights described in your recipe.
Partly baked empty tart shell with a pale base
Set but still pale The case holds its shape but the base has little colour. This may be the stopping point when the filling will bake further.
Empty tart shell with an evenly golden base
Fully baked Look at the base as well as the rim. A filling that will not return to the oven needs a properly baked case.

Illustrative blind-baking checkpoints. Pastry thickness, sugar and oven behaviour change the colour and timing; follow the recipe and inspect the base.

Shrinking, puffing and a soggy base

ProblemUsual causesPrevention
Shrinking or slumpingOverworked or stretched dough, too much or too warm fat, too little restRoll gently, do not stretch, chill before baking, use weights
PuffingBubbles forming under an unpricked, unweighted basePrick (dock) the base and fill with weights
Soggy baseUnderbaked pastry under a wet fillingPrebake; seal with melted chocolate, or egg yolk and cream brushed on 5 minutes before the end [8]

Key temperatures

Lamination needs dough and butter equally pliable: over-chilled butter fractures, warm butter melts [20]. The oven temperature converter includes a fan-oven adjustment.

StageTemperature
Puff dough while laminating2 to 7 °C (35 to 45 °F) [20]
Puff butter block16 to 21 °C (60 to 70 °F) [20][9]
Shortcrust blind bake190 to 218 °C (375 to 425 °F) [19][21]
Sweet tart shellsAbout 155 °C (311 °F) [8]
Puff and rough puff170 to 204 °C (338 to 400 °F) [10][11]
Choux218 °C (425 °F) for 15 minutes, then 177 °C (350 °F) [22]

Topping a tart? Compare French, Swiss and Italian meringue. Filling a sweet case with chocolate? Use the ganache ratio calculator. Changing tart tin size? Scale with the baking pan size converter. Converting a recipe from cups? Check the ingredient weight chart.

Keep your pastry recipes together

CookBook saves recipes from websites, social posts, photos and cookbooks and keeps them organised. In cooking mode you can change the servings and the measurement system; ingredient amounts scale, but baking times do not, so check the pastry as it bakes.

Measure the butter and flour for your pastry

Use the butter stick-to-gram table when a pastry recipe uses US sticks, and compare US and 250 ml flour cups before measuring. Keep the recipe’s flour type and butter preparation unchanged.

Sources

  1. Guide MICHELIN: Réviser ses classiques, la recette de la pâte brisée parfaite
  2. NPR: Throw away the recipe; learn the ratio instead
  3. The Splendid Table: Pie dough ratio
  4. King Arthur Baking: How to keep pie crust from shrinking
  5. King Arthur Baking: Pie crust guide
  6. Meilleur du Chef: Pâte sucrée
  7. Meilleur du Chef: Pâte sablée
  8. INBP: Techniques de pâtisserie, rappels et évolutions (PDF)
  9. BAKERpedia: Puff pastry
  10. King Arthur Baking: Classic puff pastry (pâte feuilletée)
  11. Académie de Versailles: Fiche d'analyse technique, la pâte feuilletée (PDF)
  12. King Arthur Baking: Rough puff pastry
  13. America's Test Kitchen: Exponentially upping the flakes in pastry
  14. King Arthur Baking: Pâte à choux
  15. Meilleur du Chef: Pâte à choux
  16. King Arthur Baking: What is pâte à choux?
  17. Exploratorium: Science of Cooking, Ask the Inquisitive Cooks
  18. Gourmet Traveller: How to make filo pastry
  19. King Arthur Baking: How to prebake pie crust
  20. King Arthur Baking School: Laminated baking workbook (PDF)
  21. King Arthur Baking: Classic lemon meringue pie
  22. King Arthur Baking: Cream puffs and éclairs

A little more help

Frequently asked questions

Is pâte brisée the same as shortcrust pastry?

Broadly, yes. Pâte brisée is the French form of shortcrust: cold fat worked into flour and bound with a little water, sometimes with an egg. It usually has half as much butter as flour, while American pie doughs often carry more fat, around two parts fat to three parts flour.

How many turns does puff pastry need?

Usually four to six single turns (letter folds), or the same amount of folding done partly as double turns. Rest the dough in the fridge after every two turns or so, so the butter stays firm.

Do I need ceramic pie weights to blind bake?

No. Dried beans, uncooked rice and granulated sugar all work, poured onto a liner of parchment, foil or a paper coffee filter until the case is about two-thirds full. If the sides still slip, bake the lined case upside down between two identical pie pans for the first 20 minutes.

Why did my choux buns collapse after baking?

Usually because the walls were still moist when they left the oven. As the shells cool, the steam inside condenses and wet walls fall in. Break open a test shell to check it is dry inside before taking out the batch, or slit each shell and return it to the oven for 5 minutes to let the steam escape.

Can I freeze homemade puff or rough puff pastry?

Yes. Wrap it well and freeze it for 1 to 3 months, then thaw it overnight in the fridge before rolling.

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