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French, Swiss and Italian meringue compared

French meringue whips raw egg whites with sugar, Swiss meringue heats whites and sugar together first, and Italian meringue whips in a hot sugar syrup.

CookBook TeamUpdated

French, Swiss and Italian meringue at a glance

All three are egg white foams stabilised with sugar. They differ in when, and whether, heat is applied. Ratios are sugar to egg white by weight.

FeatureFrenchSwissItalian
MethodRaw whites whipped, sugar added graduallyWhites and sugar whisked over simmering water, then whipped until coolHot sugar syrup poured into whipping whites, then whipped until cool
Sugar to egg whiteAbout 0.6:1 (soft topping) to 2:1 (crisp baked)1.5:1 to 2:1About 2:1
Temperature reachedNone until baked71 to 82 °C (160 to 180 °F)Syrup at 116 to 121 °C (240 to 250 °F)
StabilityLeast stableMore stable than FrenchMost stable
TextureLightSatiny and fineGlossy, fine, high volume
Typical usesBaked meringues, pavlova, folding into batters, pie toppingButtercream, pie and cake toppings, baked decorationsButtercream, mousses, marshmallows, piped toppings

Sugar ratios by weight

Ratio = sugar (g) ÷ egg white (g). To scale: sugar (g) = egg white (g) × ratio. Three large egg whites weigh about 105 g [1], so a 2:1 meringue from 3 whites needs 105 × 2 = 210 g sugar.

MeringueSugar to egg whiteSugar for 100 g egg white
Soft French topping (cold method) [2]0.6:160 g
Swiss meringue [3][4]1.5:1 to 2:1150 to 200 g
Crisp baked French meringues [5]1.8:1 to 2.1:1180 to 210 g
Italian meringue [6][7]2:1200 g
Swiss meringue buttercream [1]About 2.4:1About 240 g

Meringues meant to dry in the oven carry more sugar: a hard meringue has about twice as much as a soft one [8].

Glossy meringue in a bowl beside piped baked meringues
The foam should hold the shape your recipe needs. For piping, look for defined peaks that stay in place, then bake or heat as directed.

Method essentials

French meringue

Use a clean, grease-free metal, glass or ceramic bowl: any yolk or fat stops the whites foaming. Room-temperature whites, 20 to 22 °C (68 to 72 °F), whip faster [9]. Add the sugar gradually once the whites hold soft peaks, then whip to stiff peaks; a little cream of tartar, lemon juice or vinegar stabilises the foam [10]. Bake low and slow, at about 93 to 121 °C (200 to 250 °F) for 75 minutes to 2 hours [5][11].

Swiss meringue

Whisk the whites and sugar constantly over barely simmering water until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture reaches 71 to 82 °C (160 to 180 °F), then whip at high speed until thick and cool [3].

Italian meringue

Cook sugar and water without stirring once the sugar dissolves, while the whites whip. Take the syrup to 116 to 121 °C (240 to 250 °F), the firm-ball stage in the sugar syrup stages chart [12][6]. Taking the pan off the heat at about 118 °C (244 °F) lets the syrup carry on rising to about 121 °C (250 °F) [7]. Pour the syrup in a thin stream down the side of the bowl, away from the whisk, and keep whipping until the meringue cools.

Egg safety: which meringues reach 71 °C (160 °F)

Egg mixtures are safe once they reach 71 °C (160 °F) [13][14]. Separated egg white sets at 60 to 65 °C (140 to 149 °F) [15], so whisk Swiss meringue constantly as it heats.

  • French: raw until baked. Dry meringue shells are safe, and so are meringue-topped pies baked at 177 °C (350 °F) for about 15 minutes. Icings and chiffon pies made with raw whites are not recommended [13].
  • Swiss: reaches 71 °C (160 °F) when heated to the 71 to 82 °C (160 to 180 °F) target. Check it with a thermometer [3].
  • Italian: the syrup is far hotter than 71 °C (160 °F) and cooks the whites as it is beaten in [16][6]. Hot sugar syrup combined with beaten egg whites, as in divinity and 7-minute frosting, is listed as safe [13]. To be certain, check that the meringue reaches 71 °C.
  • Any type: use pasteurised eggs or egg products when eggs will be eaten raw or undercooked [13].

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeFix
Weeping (liquid under a pie topping)Underbaked: the inside never got hot enough to setSpread onto hot filling so the base cooks; add cornstarch [17]
Beading (droplets on top)Overbaking squeezes moisture out of the surfaceBake more gently, for example 163 °C (325 °F) for 20 to 25 minutes for a topping of 4 or more whites [17]
Grainy or grittyGranulated sugar not dissolvedUse superfine sugar, add it gradually, or dissolve it first (Swiss)
Will not whip or deflatesFat or yolk in the whites, a greasy plastic bowl, sugar added too early, no acidClean bowl; add sugar after soft peaks; add cream of tartar [9]
Dull and lumpyOverwhippedFor French meringue that will be baked, add another egg white and whip again [16]. Do not add raw white to a cooked meringue that will be eaten without further cooking; start again instead.
Sticky baked meringuesHumid weather; no stabiliserAllow longer drying; add cream of tartar; store airtight

Soft peaks vs stiff peaks

At soft peaks the foam clings to the whisk but forms no point; at medium peaks a peak forms and droops at the tip; at stiff peaks it stands in a sharp point [16]. Add sugar from soft peaks. Whip Swiss meringue to medium-stiff peaks and baked meringues to stiff peaks [3][5].

Smooth egg-white foam with a tip that folds over
Soft peaks The lifted foam droops instead of keeping a sharp point. This is the point to begin adding sugar gradually for French meringue.
Smooth glossy egg-white foam holding an upright peak
Stiff peaks A distinct point stands up and the mixture still looks smooth. Stop once the recipe’s required peak is reached.
Rough clumps of overwhipped egg-white foam
Overwhipped The texture becomes dull, broken and lumpy. More beating will not turn those dry clumps into a smooth peak.

Lift the whisk to check texture, then follow the recipe’s heating or baking step. Peaks show structure, not whether egg whites have reached a safe temperature.

Meringue buttercreams

Swiss and Italian meringue are the base of the buttercreams named after them. A Swiss meringue buttercream heats 105 g whites with 248 g sugar to 72 °C (161 °F), whips until the bowl is barely warm, then beats in 454 g butter at 18 °C (65 °F) or warmer, a little at a time [1]. For Italian buttercream, whip the meringue down to 27 °C (80 °F) before the butter goes in [12]. Both can look curdled halfway: keep beating. If the buttercream is soft, chill it for 15 minutes and whip again.

For syrup temperatures and cold-water tests, see sugar syrup stages. For the tart case under a meringue topping, see types of pastry compared.

Keep your meringue recipes together

CookBook saves recipes from websites, social posts, photos and cookbooks and keeps them organised. In cooking mode you can change the servings and the measurement system; ingredient amounts scale, but cooking times do not.

Sources

  1. King Arthur Baking: Swiss meringue buttercream
  2. American Society of Baking: Meringue
  3. King Arthur Baking: Swiss meringue
  4. Meilleur du Chef: Meringue suisse
  5. King Arthur Baking: Meringues
  6. Great British Chefs: How to make Italian meringue
  7. Meilleur du Chef: Meringue italienne
  8. Ricardo: Your guide to French, Swiss and Italian meringue
  9. King Arthur Baking: Meringue rules
  10. King Arthur Baking: What's the best way to make meringue?
  11. Meilleur du Chef: Meringue française
  12. King Arthur Baking: Italian buttercream
  13. USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service: Shell eggs from farm to table
  14. FoodSafety.gov: Safe minimum internal temperatures
  15. BCcampus, Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques: Coagulation
  16. Culinary Institute of America, CIA Foodies: All about meringues
  17. Ricardo: How to keep a meringue pie from weeping

A little more help

Frequently asked questions

Do I need cream of tartar to make meringue?

It is not essential, but it helps. Egg whites can reach stiff peaks without added acid, but acid helps the foam stay stable and makes it less likely to collapse during or after mixing. Cream of tartar, lemon juice or white vinegar can help; follow your recipe for the amount. Use about 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar for every one or two large egg whites.

Why are my baked meringues sticky the next day?

Sugar draws moisture from the air, so meringues dry slowly and soften again on humid days, and meringues made without an acid stabiliser can turn chewy overnight. Dry them fully and store them airtight once cool: dry Swiss meringues keep for 2 to 6 weeks.

Which meringue is best for lemon meringue pie?

Swiss and Italian meringue are the most stable, which makes them the best choice for toppings. French meringue also works when it goes onto hot filling and bakes through: meringue-topped pies are considered safe when baked at 177 °C (350 °F) for about 15 minutes.

Can I use carton or dried egg whites for meringue?

Yes. Pasteurised egg products are recommended when eggs will be eaten raw or undercooked. Reconstitute dried egg whites following the maker’s instructions, and check the pack to see whether the product is recommended for whipping. Meringue powder also works for Italian buttercream.

Can I make Italian meringue without a thermometer?

It is possible but harder to repeat. The syrup target is narrow, roughly 116 to 121 °C (240 to 250 °F), around the firm-ball stage, so a cold-water test can get you close. The sugar syrup stages guide explains how to do the test. An electronic probe thermometer makes the result much easier to repeat.

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